Map to the Baths
by D.R. McClintock (c) 1989I first visited the Baths with charter
guests in 1983, and since then have visited them countless times. In 1987 I
developed a map to help my charter guests find their way around the Baths' many
intricate passageways. While using it, my guests were invariably pressed into
service as tour guides for other explorers.
The map is intended to help visitors find their way through the maze of
boulders, and to help them discover its most interesting features. While an
attempt has been made to draw it roughly to scale, there are in fact many more,
smaller boulders on the site than are indicated. This is especially so to the
south towards Devil's Bay. To follow the course indicated on the map will take
approximately 45 minutes to an hour. I hope that the map will help visitors to
discover the hidden beauty of the Baths.
Key to Using the Map
A. Dinghy landing beach. When approaching exercise great caution
as snorkelers are in the water. Also, there is often a lot of surge.
B. Shrubs. You may leave snorkeling equipment while exploring the
boulders. Also, site of vendors selling T-shirts and shells
C. Poor Man's Bar. Sells drinks, hamburgers, T-shirts.
D. Trail to taxi drop-off, about a 7-minute easy walk.
E. Snorkeling is quite good in this area for fish; also, to the north
where you can find Elk Horn Coral formations. West of the dinghy landing.
1. Entrance. You'll have to crouch and waddle like a duck here!
2. Shelf Boulder. Note fault through top of adjacent boulder to right
of this boulder.
3. North Cabe. Note deep holes caused by uneven erosion. Also, note
the size of this boulder, one of the largest here.
4. "The Baths." A great photo opportunity! Notice on the
huge boulder to your right the beautiful markings caused by chemical reaction of
rain water (weak carbonic acid) with minerals.
5. The Throne. Another fun photo opportunity.
6. Ship's Keep Boulder. As you stand under this boulder look at its
shape. Doesn't it look like the keel of a sailboat to you?
7. Walk under the ship's keel as far as you can to the south, then turn
around and look up. This magnificent tunnel is Neptune's Hideaway. Notice
the pitting on the boulders on your left. Now retrace your steps back out to the
edge of the first pool.
8. The Cathedral. Look up and marvel at the limited points of contact
between the massive boulders above you!
9. Tarzan Land. The roots are of pomegranate trees which you'll see
when you climb above in a moment or two.
10. Boulder House. Notice how dry it is in here, even when it rains.
Now retrace your steps a few yards and turn to your left and start up the
incline. Look to you right to see ...
11. Geodesic Cave. One of the prettiest, most intricate of the caves.
Another great photo opportunity. Continue to climb up. Just as you emerge
between the two boulders, look ahead to see ...
12. Whale's Head. Notice to the left of the whale's mouth an obelisk
which was once part of the Whale's Head boulder. Stand near the obelisk now and
look to the west to find the entrance to Neptune's Hideaway. Now a new shape has
emerged !
13. Lion's Head. Start at the top of the boulder and let your eye
follow the line down to the left. Do you see the lion's forehead and nose? See
his upper jaw, his eye, the markings on his face and his mane.
14. Ehiopian Head. A striking formation to the left of the lion.
The most famous site in the British Virgin Islands is the Baths on Virgin
Gorda, and visitors to the island rarely miss a visit to these magnificent
boulders and the sheltered pools for which the Baths are named. They are also a
regular stopover on the British Virgin Islands' charter boat circuit. Indeed,
they are so popular that charter vessels from St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin
Islands motor to the Baths every day. Yachtsmen anchor just to the west of the
site and either swim to shore or land their dinghies on the high sand beach
ringed by sea grape trees and boulders.
As the skippers of Camelot, a 51 foot charter yacht, my wife Mavis and I are
frequent visitors to the Baths. Invariably our charter guests are overwhelmed by
the sight of these mansion sized boulders piled atop one another. As these awed
explorers stroll along the beach, wade through the pools and explore the
innumerable passageways above and below the boulders, they repeatedly ask the
same questions: How did such massive boulders get here in the first place? What
were the forces that raised them into place? How long have they been here? How
did they develop into such fantastic shapes? And, especially, how did the
mysterious caves and deep holes form within the boulders themselves?
Many of these questions can be answered by geologists, and a detailed look at
the geology of the Baths can be found in Charles A. Patte's booklet, The Story
of the Boulders, which is sold at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour.
In his book, Dr. Patte explains that the oldest rocks in the Virgin Islands
began to form approximately 120 million years ago as the result of volcanic
action. However, the granite boulders of Virgin Gorda did not appear until the
Tertiary Period, approximately 70 million years ago. At that time, molten rock
called magma found its way into the newly formed layers of lava on the seabed of
the Caribbean. The accumulation of magma gradually formed huge sections of
granite, consisting mainly of feldspar and quartz. About 15 to 25 million years
ago, faulting and uplifting of the sea floor occurred. The granite which by now
formed part of the sea floor was thus exposed, initially in the form of rather
more squared boulders, rather than the rounded remains which we now observe.
Originally these boulders were more massive. However, fault lines developed,
causing them to break into smaller pieces, which rested atop and alongside of
one another.
As millions of years passed, weathering and erosion occurred. One of the most
important sources of erosion is rain water. As it falls, the rain reacts with
carbon dioxide and a very weak form of carbonic acid results. All of the
minerals which form granite, except quartz, react readily with carbonic acid,
and erosion and pitting, as well as fluting of the boulders occurs. If you
observe the surface of the boulders you will notice that in many places the
rough surface appears to be flaking.
The roughness is caused by particles of quartz which are exposed, but still
held in place by the minerals not yet eroded around them.
Large caves carved out of the rocks and a massive tunnel through one of the
boulders are additional features of the Baths. Dr. Ratte explains that such
hollow boulders are formed by prevalent easterly and southeasterly winds. These
provide additional moisture on the most exposed rock face; resulting in an
accelerated erosion which gradually develops a ledge or canopy on the face of
the rock. Dampness within the shaded canopy, furthers the erosion and hollowing
process. Over millions of years, this steady erosion has created the substantial
caves that fascinate visitors
The Baths are not just for exploring, though. The white sand beach is ideal
for sunning, and the clear waters for swimming and snorkelling. For snorkellers
interested in seeing fish, the snorkelling is best near the rocks to the south
of the dinghy landing beach, and around the rocks just to the west. There is
quite a substantial colony of elk horn coral formations to the north of the
dinghy landing. Look, but don't touch these fragile formations. Also, since
there is only one landing area for dinghies, snorkellers should avoid blocking
the channel to the beach. Likewise, yachtsmen approaching the beach by dinghy,
should watch out for snorkellers.
As you visit this beautiful area, which is now part of the British Virgin
Islands National Parks Trust, do respect its fragile nature: deposit all trash
in the appropriate receptacle, or even better, take it away with you. And kindly
refrain from defacing any of the boulders, or damaging them in any way. As you
wander through this incredible geological site, you will be filled with a sense
of the wonder of our universe, of which we are but a tiny, very finite part.
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